The morning sun is peaking through the slats on the shutters, teasing me as I try to get past six hours of sleep. Teasing me with a new day, full of possibilities and discovery. My bed isn't overly comfortable but compared to that cot I slept on in the basement when we separated, it's the king size bed in the presidential suite. I'm warm and cozy as the night chill lingers, the day promises to be glorious...a beautiful fall day that will serve as a back drop to the exploration of my new home, temporary as it is.
I've taken the plunge and chased my dream of living in Europe, taking myself right out of any comfort zone I have, leaving behind family and friends to immerse myself in all things Greek. Here I am, a little apartment over a taverna on the isle of Santorini in the town of Oia, one week in on my three month experiment. Everyone has heard me talk about it and now I get to live it...it took a lot of time and a lot of effort but here I am. Slightly petrified but excited as hell and, so far, loving it.
I came at the tale end of the tourist season because I'm not interested in being a tourist. I want to experience what's on the table as if I am one of them...I'm not of course, nor will I ever be, but I do believe it's infinitely better than stopping in for a week while rushing around to see the Expedia top ten, or worse, pull in on the latest homage to cruising hell at 7:00 AM to "experience all that Santorini has to offer"...please be back on the ship for departure at 5:00 PM. Twelve hours to explore an island? How about a dock and perhaps take a few pictures on the famed white walls overlooking those blue seas. No thanks. I have had first dates last longer than what an average tourist might spend wandering around...and that's why I am living the next few months over this wonderful little cafe.
A bit of time researching and reaching out to people and lo and behold I have a relatively cheap room to stay in for a few months while I absorb. I've already had a night helping out downstairs, just doing dishes and stuff. My reward, some wine and broken English chat...my does it ever feel good. Being born in France to Yugoslavian parents I imagine the pull of the old world has been in my blood always, but has truly taken hold since my 40's...I feel it in my bones, my soul belongs here. I just think that they do life better here, and these few days have confirmed that for me. Sure, it's far from perfect but what is not to like about the warmth of new friends being made, good food without pretension, wine aplenty and a depth of history to explore. I suspect I will return home a changed man.
Today, as I have everyday since getting settled, I will stroll down the narrow streets to the small open air market for a coffee and a nibble of some fresh pastries and fruit. While I can cook my meals in my apartment I like the experience of getting out and seeing, meeting and doing. My grand plan for today is to explore a few streets over from me, to walk the narrow paths that countless others have walked over for generations. Find that out of the way book store, the little shop with the passionate artist doing his pottery...who will I meet today?
For a lunch, taken before a new found joy, the afternoon mesimeri, I will find some fresh fish and light salad to dine on...my room has a large window with a small table in front of it to watch the town move and the seas swell. Fresh fish done simply in the wonderful olive oil of the region with a few pomegranate seeds thrown in last minute and a salad of delicate lettuce dressed with tomatoes and the thinnest red onions gently kissed with a lemony vinaigrette....le sigh. The idea of taking a two hour nap seems odd to my Canadian sensibilities but my god isn't it a wonderful thing to be able to turn off and rest your body, mind and soul before getting back to life. An appreciation of what life should be about and truly embracing "la dolce far niente"
The night will bring cooler air, starry skies and a melange of conversations shared over food and wine...rising and falling in passion as everything from the the national team's latest football qualifier to the state of the street repairs finally being done after years of neglect. The little things that matter for locals provide me with an insight into their world, if conversation flows to grander themes it will be because I sat and listened to the trivial, to the inane and to the deeply held convictions of my neighbours.
And while this all swirls around me I will slowly be working up an appetite for whatever is being cooked over that open fire out front...nothing beats that flavourful meat cooked over the embers of a charcoal fire. The delicious odour of garlic, lemon and lamb or pork grilling away mingles with the scent of the fresh flowers and the saltiness of the sea wind. I am holding out as long as I can, an appetizer of saganaki will hopefully tide me over. My server dousing the flaming cheese with lemon as he places the dish in front of me...that aroma, that sizzling sound...how could you not love this forever?
While I am alone now I won't be for long, in a few weeks my love is coming for ten days to explore with me. I miss her terribly and she I, at least I hope so...she has been so understanding and supportive of my decision to follow this path. In many ways our strong connection is what helped me to get here....her support and understanding helping me to realize that it was OK to go away for a bit. While a long distant relationship is a hard thing, this is a temporary distance...a brief time apart and I do truly believe absence makes the heart grow fonder. I can't wait to see her smiling face again.
For now, as I watch the sun set behind the hills and my glass full again, I will count my blessings and marvel at what I am getting to do. I remember hearing an interview with Mandy Patinkin a long while ago, while talking about his role in The Princess Bride, he was relating what he said to his wife when they first saw the film, through tears he said that he didn't have the chance to dream about being involved with something so magical...tears for the pure joy, well, that's how I feel. Pure joy as I marvel at the beauty around me....my dreams never coming close to the reality of what I have in front of me.
I can hardly contain myself at what tomorrow will bring......
Dreaming indeed.....
Ciao
D
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